Ranch Oyster Crackers with Sumac (Wisconsin, 1980s, adapted)

Cool Ranch Doritos were introduced to an unsuspecting American public in 1986 and have been a best seller ever since (in spite of those awful Jay Leno commercials).   Thirty-odd years later there you can find ranch-flavored anything.  There’s a local company that sells ranch-flavored crickets, so I really do mean everything.  But in the……